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The Orange County Register Dine: Fine foraging in this Forest By ELIZABETH EVANS
There are some ideas that are so good they ultimately turn bad. Chocolate-chip pancakes and any movie with George Clooney are two that come immediately to mind. Another is visiting Laguna Beach on a warm summer evening. The last time I tried it was 10 years ago, and the stress caused by slow traffic and masses of people made me very sorry I was the designated driver. But this iconic seaside village is so inviting when the days get long that I'm tempted every year to forgo my “no Laguna Beach in the summer” edict and return. I've also wanted to return to 230 Forest Avenue to see how the eatery is doing more than a decade after it opened. So forgetting all my vows, I return one midweek night early in the summer – to be honest, before summer has officially started. Still, it is a very crowded Thursday night. We arrive early for our 8 p.m. reservations, so we expect to wait. The cramped bar area is three to four people deep, and it has the feel of a locals-only hangout. So we loiter with an intent to eat on the sidewalk in front of the small storefront space. We watch as that distinctive California beach-town combination of locals and visitors wander the tree- and gallery-lined street. My appetite grows. The wait lengthens to nearly a half-hour. Fortunately, a bag of warm bread and black-olive-studded butter is deposited on our table as soon as we are seated. The butter is a lovely meeting of sweet cream and bitter brine from the olives. As I settle in, I note that any changes in the crowded dining space have been subtle, and that the large realistic canvases that hang on the wall somewhat ironically portray street scenes from Los Angeles. I like the comfortable chaos of the restaurant: Waiters, water boys and customers move constantly, but it feels choreographed. I also like that chef Mark Cohen's cooking has remained self-assured and constant. As a matter of fact, I think it's improved since my last visit. Or perhaps after one too many unimpressive towers of tuna, I see Cohen's version, called Ahi Tuna Tartare ($13), for the rarity it is. This rendering of the oft-copied starter is stellar. The lovely oily raw fish is layered with sweet crabmeat and fiery wasabi caviar – tiny fish roe flavored and colored by the bright-green Japanese horseradish. The appetizer is topped with wisps of tender popcorn sprouts, delicate micro greens that lend the unmistakable taste of corn kernels to the mix. Served with sturdy sesame crackers, it's a fine starter to share. Red and Golden Beets ($11) is an appetizer even for people who normally don't care for the earthy root vegetable. The tiny orbs are heavily masked by a briny shallot vinaigrette and served with a fluffy patty of goat cheese coated in toasted hazelnuts. I like the mingling of salt and tang. Bang Bang Rock Shrimp ($12) lives up to its brash name. Although it seems tame enough overflowing from a deep bowl, its looks are deceiving. The generous portion of the wok-fried shrimp is padded with crisp rice noodles and cabbage. The latter is a nice mellow counterbalance to the honey-and-fire combination of plum sauce and chili oil that seasons the shrimp. The menu is divided into relatively short sections including Green Plates, a collection of hearty salads; Pasta Bowls; Ocean Plates; and Land Plates. At lunch there are a few options Between the Bread. We opt for Lobster Alfredo ($24) from the pasta selections. The steaming mound of thick noodles doesn't look at all like I think it should. I'm expecting a creamy white mix, but this comes brick red and abundantly dotted with peas. But never mind appearances, the heady mix of smoky bacon and lobster with Cognac and diced tomatoes is well-executed. Next, we try the Day Boat Scallops ($29). These fresh mollusks are pan-seared and served over a robust bed of squash and porcini risotto. The tricky rice dish is slightly sticky but nicely flavored with just a touch of white-truffle oil, mild enough to not offend or overpower the delicate sweet corn nage (broth). The Filet Mignon ($32) is a tantalizing piece of beef under a glossy topper of Burgundy and chunks of sharp Gorgonzola cheese. It's served with fat onion rings coated in a cornmeal polenta batter and served over rustic garlic mashed potatoes. I'm most attracted to the Double Cut Pork Chop ($27) because the menu says it is maple-infused. So I'm happy that the taste of that sugary sap comes through vividly in this thick piece of pork. The meaty chop comes with thick sweet-potato fries that are a delicious blend of sweet and salty, as well as being crisp on the outside and creamy inside. The same can't be said of the rather lackluster corn flan, which this night has little taste or substance to stand up to the robust flavors from the pork or potatoes. For dessert we're torn between the Profiteroles ($9) and the Croissant Bread Pudding ($9), so we order them both. They are fine ways to end a meal here. The Profiteroles (miniature cream puffs) are filled with a pale-green pistachio ice cream and topped with chocolate sauce. And the warm pudding is dense, rich and generously flecked with melting chunks of dark chocolate. It's also crowned with a ball of vanilla ice cream and an aromatic bourbon crème anglaise. As we leave, the crowd has thinned, the TVs are off, the doors are shut, and we're the last customers to go. I'm struck by another idea. Maybe I shouldn't wait another decade to return.
Coastline Pilot This is a dining experience unparalleled, whether you join a hungry group or choose to dine solo. A welcoming entry bar that stretches out to the sidewalk. Settle inside, where premium labels captivate the cocktail contingent, or simply stroll street side. The whirling numerals "230" are illuminated on the concrete walk, and the friendly presence of a charming hostess are mere exterior signs of the enticing repast awaiting at this delightfully artistic gourmet attraction.
AOL Cityguide
Orange County Register The whimsical squash soup was a warming blend of aromatic spices and early vegetables.The salmon and mussel stew is rich with smoked bacon and firm white beans - the kind of hearty stuff designed to warm a fisherman down to his toes. And that seems to be the hallmark of this cooking, With few exceptions, the dishes at 230 Forest Avenue taste like real food, with true, honest flavors.
Cuisine
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